Discovering Ledong: The fiery dragon kilns of Sanqugou

The Fu’an Kiln in Chengmai County, a protected cultural relic of Hainan Province, is arguably the most well known of all ancient kilns on the island. Less well known is the fact that there are also a number of ancient kiln sites located in Hainan’s southwestern Ledong Li Autonomous County. The largest of these sites is Sanqugou in Huangliu Town, which boasts the most massive ancient dragon kiln in Hainan.

Private collector Rong Zuxin displays a piece of pottery in front of a dragon kiln in Huangliu Town, Ledong. (Photo: Hainan Daily)

Most dragon kilns are built close to mountains. The body of the kiln is tilted, with the ‘head’ lower than the ‘tail’. They take their name from their resemblance to the mighty mythical beasts of legend and lore. Dragon kilns have three main components: the kiln head, kiln chamber, and kiln tail. The fire chamber, where wood is fed in, and lit, and where air enters the kiln, is located in the head. The kiln chamber is where the pottery is placed to be fired.

Dragon kiln exterior (Photo: Hainan Daily)

There were originally eight dragon kilns at the Sanqugou site, but later some were destroyed. The remaining three are located in large fields.

According to the records of Xinmin Village, pottery has been made locally for over 300 years. A wealthy ancestor of the Zhan family moved there from Longtang Village, Xitang Town, Qiongshan during the Qing Dynasty era. He married a local Li woman and became the father of the art of pottery in Xinmin Village, teaching pottery techniques to other locals. Pottery became a local industry that has continued through the present day. Another local story says that ancestors of the village migrated from Shuinan Village in Yazhou, Sanya during the Ming Dynasty era. Since the land in the village was suited to pottery making, they stayed for 27 generations. There used to be a large body of water bordering the ancient kiln site, allowing potters to load their wares onto boats and transport them to be sold in different locations.

The three remaining dragon kilns are under strict protection as cultural relics. There are several different types of ancient Chinese kilns, including ‘steamed bun’, ‘dragon’ and ‘horseshoe’ kilns, each named for what they resemble. The Fu’an Kiln in Chengmai is also classified as a dragon kiln, while the partially collapsed Tianlangyuan Kiln in Qionghai is clearly a steamed bun kiln. The ruins at the Sanqugou site have not yet been excavated, but the long, narrow shapes suggest that these are also dragon kilns. Although the kiln sites are overgrown with grass, they are obviously built along the slopes, with multiple connected chambers equipped with firing holes as well as a row of holes along the top for smoke to escape.

Pottery stacked inside the dragon kiln. (Photo: Hainan Daily)

There are other ancient kiln sites in Ledong as well, including the Baoyou Kiln Site, Tiantou Village Kiln Site, Dan Village Kiln Site and Yangshang Village Kiln Site. According to the original records, the Baoyou Kiln Site, which were located inland, are now underwater. The pottery fired in Dan Village, Tiantou Village, and Yangshan Village are similar to that made at Sanqugou. Together, these form a group of kiln sites along the coast of Ledong that can be called the ‘Sanqugou Kiln System’.

Judging from the existing pottery known to be produced there, the Sanqugou kiln produced mainly large pieces. Some of the pots are nearly one meter tall, and the site has also produced large jars and bowls that feature carvings and other decorative techniques. In general, dragon kilns were mainly used to fire porcelain, but celadon-glazed and green-glazed porcelains, such as those produced in the Fu’an Kiln, have not yet been found at Sanqugou. It remains to be seen what new information will be discovered when the ancient kilns of Sanqugou are finally excavated.(By Nicki Johnson)