An inheritor of the traditional brocade craft (second from right) talks with young enthusiasts for intangible cultural heritage. [Photo/VCG]

A Li woman works on a dragon tapestry. [Photo/IC]

In late 2024, the traditional Li textile techniques of spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidering were inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. These ancient textile practices, known for their distinct craftsmanship and aesthetic richness, have been passed down through generations in communities inhabited by the Li ethnic group in South China’s Hainan province. They include ramie weaving, cotton weaving, brocade weaving, tie-dyeing and other dyeing methods, embroidery, and the making of longbei, the renowned dragon tapestry.

The regions inhabited by the Li people have abundant natural resources for textile production, including kapok and wild ramie. Before cotton textiles became widespread, wild ramie fabrics were the primary material used. Typically harvested during the rainy season, the ramie bark was stripped, soaked, washed, and processed into fiber sheets. These sheets were then dyed, hand-twisted into yarn or spun with a spindle, and finally woven into cloth. The resulting fabric was strong and durable, often used for work clothing and everyday garments.

Li brocade, or lijin, is celebrated for its intricate and vibrant patterns. Over 160 distinct motifs have been documented, featuring human figures, animals, plants, flowers, daily tools, and geometric designs. Among these, anthropomorphic and nature-inspired motifs are the most prevalent. Two main types of looms are used in weaving lijin: the foot-treadle loom and the traditional backstrap loom. The latter is one of the oldest loom types, allowing Li women to weave remarkably complex and ornate designs. Historically, the styles, colors, and patterns of lijin served as important cultural identifiers for various clans and kinship groups, making it a textile of high anthropological value.

Tie-dye, traditionally known as jiaoxie, is the widely used dyeing technique among the Li people, which follows a meticulous process involving binding, dyeing, drying, and folding to create colorful and patterned fabrics. Natural dyes are primarily derived from plants, such as leaves, flowers, bark, and roots, supplemented by mineral pigments.

Li embroidery involves both single-sided and double-sided techniques. The most exquisite examples come from the Li communities of Baisha autonomous county who speak Run dialect, known for their refined compositions and intricate needlework.

Among all Li textiles, the dragon tapestry, or longbei, is regarded as the most precious, which integrates weaving, dyeing, embroidery and other techniques into one masterpiece. These tapestries are admired for their elaborate craftsmanship, vivid colors, elegant patterns and diverse styles. Due to their exceptional quality and cultural significance, they were historically offered as tributes to imperial courts. Today, longbei remains a treasured artifact for understanding the stylistic variations and regional characteristics of Li textile traditions, offering valuable insights into the cultural evolution of the Li ethnic group.

ihchina.cn contributed to the story.